Study on the phenomenon of Shoaling-Breaking in Water Wave Equation Formulated Using Weighted Total Acceleration Equation

Syawaluddin Hutahean



This research is the continuation of previous research conducted by the author, where in this research a wave equation is developed using total acceleration equation for a function f (x, z, t) and formulated using a complete velocity potential. Based on the wave equation, shoaling-breaking model is developed and the breaker height  produced by the model is examined. There is a conformity between breaker height a model and breaker height produced by the previous research.



Penelitian ini merupakan kelanjutan dari penelitian sebelumnya yang dilakukan oleh penulis, dimana pada penelitian tersebut dikembangkan suatu persamaan gelombang dengan mengggunakan  total acceleration equation untuk suatu fungsi f (x, z, t)   dan dirumuskan dengan menggunakan velocity potential yang lengkap. Berdasarkan persamaan gelombang  tersebut dikembangkan model shoaling-breaking dan diteliti breaker height  yang dihasilkan model. Diperoleh  kesesuaian antara breaker height model yang digunakan dengan breaker height hasil penelitian terdahulu.


Complete potential velocity, weighted total acceleration, breaker height

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