Paper ID:9479

Women Perspective of of Kebaya Surakarta based on Biographies of Gusti Noeroel and Utami Suryadarma

Ira Adriati, Almira Belinda Zainsjah & Irma Damajanti

Aesthetics and Science of Arts Research Group Faculty of Art and Design, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Jalan Ganesha 10, Bandung 40132, Jawa Barat, Indonesia

E-mail: ira.adriati@gmail.com

Abstract. Kebaya is a national dress for Indonesian women. This paper analyzes the development of Kebaya Surakarta used by Gusti Neoroel, a princess in Mangkunegara Palace and Utami Suryadarma, the daughter of a high rank officer in Surakarta. Both of them became the subject of this research because they used kebaya consistently throughout their lives despite their interaction with various modern cultures. This paper uses a historical approach, especially women's studies and the development of Indonesian social culture and kebaya design. All of the data is collected from various literature. Gusti Noeroel and Utami Suryadarma are highly educated noble women in their time. They interact with various nations and modern cultures while consistently using kebaya as one of Indonesian characteristics. Kebaya Surakarta as their first outfit, developed on the collar section and the length of the clothes with a tighter design. In addition, the development of its material changes according to their times. We can conclude that these princesses’ abilities to adjust kebaya according to each era, make their kebaya design always up to date.

Keywords: Woman Studies, Kebaya Surakarta, Gusti Noeroel, Utami Suryadarma

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