Transformation of Malay Manuscript Illumination as Embroidery Motif on Baju Kuruang Basiba

Yulfira Riza; Nadia Ihsania; Shinta  Fitria Utami

doi:10.5614/j.vad.2024.16.2.1

Authors

Yulfira Riza UIN Imam Bonjol Padang
Nadia Ihsania Universitas Negeri Padang
Shinta Fitria Utami UIN Sulthan Thaha Saifuddin Jambi

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5614/j.vad.2024.16.2.1

Keywords:

baju kuruang basiba, creative industry, decorative pattern, illumination, motif

Abstract

This study proposes creative industry products with decorative motifs inspired by antique illuminated manuscripts collected by the Leiden University Library. Three illuminated Malay manuscripts were taken, namely: the manuscript with the number Or. 1703 entitled Sejarah Melayu; Or. 1768 entitled Collective Volume with Texts in Malay; and Or. 1967 entitled Hikayat Iskandar Zulkarnain. A descriptive qualitative method was used in this research. Field observation was conducted by interviewing an expert in decorative motifs to achieve the harmony of motifs and aesthetics in baju kuruang basiba. The motif was created using the CorelDrawX7 software. This study created embroidery motifs that can be classified as naturalistic ornaments. The design of decorative motifs for baju kuruang basiba can be embroidered with the suji and kapalo samek techniques. Meanwhile, the material used is a material that does not show because the sewing of baju kuruang basiba does not use furring. The decorative patterns that can be used are rasp patterns and fringe patterns. Baju kuruang basiba is a typical Minangkabau shirt that must be preserved as a cultural heritage object. The addition of this embroidery motif can add to the aesthetic appearance of the shirt to make it more attractive and luxurious.

References

Illuminated Manuscripts and How They Were Created, Park West Gallery, https://www.parkwestgallery.com/what-are-illuminated-manuscripts-and-how-were-they-created/, (3 June 2024).

Fusco, P., Fogelman, P.A. & Cambareri, M., Masterpieces of the J. Paul Getty Museum: European sculpture, Christopher Hudson, 1999.

Longoni, M., Hopes, N., Rossi, F., Tessera, M.R., Petoletti, M. & Bruni, S., Inside the Scriptorium: Non-invasive in Situ Identification of Dyes in Illuminated Manuscripts by Microspectrofluorimetry and Multivariate Analysis: The Crescenzago Choir Books (End 15th Century) as a Case Study, Heritage, 6(2), pp. 2006?2019, Feb. 2023.

Jakubek, M. & Raczkowska, The Decoration of Manuscript PL-GD MAR. F 406. A Contribution to Studies on The Fifteenth-Century Art of Book Illuminating in Gda?sk, Muzyka, 68(1), pp. 62?92, May 2023.

Azimi, H., Book Decoration and Illumination in Exquisite Manuscripts of the Qajar Period, Library and Information Sciences, 24(4), pp. 205?235, Jan. 2022.

Erwin, M.S. Warhat, Z. & Syafwandi, S., Brand Identity of Nagari Pariangan, The Most Beautiful Village in the World of Tanah Datar District, West Sumatra, Besaung Jurnal Seni Desain dan Budaya, 4(2), pp. 91?96, Sep. 2019. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Syarif, M.I. & Kurniawati, D.W., The Function of Illumination in Javanese Manuscripts of the Keraton Scriptorium, Imajinasi, 12(2), pp. 85?96, Sep. 2018. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Sulaiman, A.M. & Bastian, H., Revitalization of Illumination Design in Ancient Javanese Manuscripts at Radya Pustaka Museum Surakarta, Andharupa Jurnal Desain Komunikasi Visual & Multimedia, 5(2), pp. 240?250, Aug. 2019. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Pandanwangi, A., Alya, S.H., Budiman, I. & Apin, A.M., Ancient Manuscript Batik: Transformation of Illumination from Ancient Manuscripts into Batik Patterns, Panggung, 32(4), pp. 467?479, Jan. 2023. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Basa, I.M., Development of the Creative Industry from Illumination of Ancient Pariangan Manuscripts: Study of Pariagan Batik Motifs, West Sumatra, Manuskripta, 9(2), pp. 1?10, Dec. 2019. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Fernandes, F. & Efi, A., Ornamentation in Ancient Manuscripts as an Inspiration for Batik Patterns in Nagari Pariangan, Tanah Datar District, Jurnal Pendidikan, Busana, Seni, dan Teknologi, 4(1), pp. 169?175, Apr. 2022. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Pramono, P., Bahren, B., Hidayat, H., Wasana, W. & Syahrani, A. Creating Batik Motifs from Minangkabau Manuscript Illumination, in International Conference on Local Wisdom, Padang: Universitas Andalas, 2019.

Pramono, P. Eka, M., Fauzan, M., Yusuf, Rona, A., Satria, P.Y., Bahren, B. & Salman, H.N.A., Development of Batik Motifs Based on Minangkabau Manuscript Illumination to Enhance Dewi Busana and Canting Buana Home Batik Businesses, Jurnal Hiliriasi IPTEKS, 6(1), pp. 1?14, Mar. 2023. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Yati, R.M., The Emergence of the Minangkabau Women?s Movement in the Early 20th Century, Kafa`ah Journal of Gender Study, 7(2), p. 147?158, Dec. 2017. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Hanani S. & Khairat, N., Ruhana Kuddus: Pioneer of the Female Entrepreneur Movement in Minangkabau, Marwah Jurnal Perempuan, Agama dan Jender, 19(1), pp. 1?14, Jun. 2020. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Ranelis, R. & Malik, K., Development of Design and Motifs in Koto Gadang Embroidery Products, Idealogy, 3(1), pp. 23?46, 2018. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Ranelis, R., Washinton, R., Malik, K. & Trisnawati, D., Quality Improvement of Koto Gadang Embroidery in Agam Regency, West Sumatra, through Product Design and Motif Development to Support the Creative Industry, Mudra Jurnal Seni Budaya, 34(3), pp. 349?357, Sep. 2019. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Prihatin, P., The Art of Traditional Hand Embroidery and Women Artisans in Nagari Koto Gadang: An Economic, Social, and Cultural Perspective, Jurnal Ilmu Universitas Batanghari Jambi, 22(2), pp. 1197?1204, Jul. 2022. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Ibrahim, A. Djafri, D. & Bafiman, R., Traditional Clothing of West Sumatra Region, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan, 2004. (Text in Indonesian)

Imelda, D., Revitalization of the Minangkabau Baju Kuruang Basiba, Ekspresi Seni, 18(2), Nov. 2016. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Arsa, D., Unveiled and Veiled: The Padri War and Its Implications for the Daily Attire of Minang-Muslim Women in the Early 19th Century, Analisis Jurnal Studi Keislaman, 18(2), pp. 27?66, Dec. 2018. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Rahmadani, S. & Hasrul, H., The West Sumatra Cultural Department?s Program for Preserving Minangkabau Culture, Journal of Civic Education, 4(2), pp. 163?172, Aug. 2021. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Creswell, J.W., Research Desain Qualitative, Quantitative, and Mixed Method Approaches, ed. 4, Sage Publications, Inc, 2014.

Salim, D.P., Islam, Politics & Identity in West Sumatra, Journal of. Indonesian Islam, 7(1), pp. 96?118, Jun. 2013.

Bagindo, M.N., Chaniago, M.I., Herwandi, H. & Hussin, H. Minangkabau Ancient History and Cultural Communication, International Conference on Science and Social Research 2022, Shah Alam, pp. 205?209. 2023.

Fathurahman, O., Indonesian Philology: Theory and Method, Prenadamedia Group, 2015. (Text in Indonesian)

Hikayat Nabi Muhammad Mengajar Anaknya Fatimah Or. 1768, Digital Collection Universiteit Leiden, https://digitalcollections.universiteitleiden.nl/view/item/2041503?solr_nav%5Bid%5D=09755a28b762e2549ced&solr_nav%5Bpage%5D=0&solr_nav%5Boffset%5D=0#page/1/mode/1up, (24 July 2023).

Hikayat Iskandar Zulkarnain Or.1967 Part 1, Digital Collection Universiteit Leiden, https://digitalcollections.universiteitleiden.nl/view/item/2037307?solr_nav%5Bid%5D=d8d8aa64a7bf566ed64c&solr_nav%5Bpage%5D=0&solr_nav%5Boffset%5D=0, (23 July 2023).

Sejarah Melayu Or.1703, Digital Collection Universiteit Leiden, https://digitalcollections.universiteitleiden.nl/view/item/1571087, (24 July 2023).

Fajarwati, R.S. & Agustin, S.A., Exploring New Majapahit Batik Motif Designs Using Participatory Design Methods, Jurnal Sains dan Seni ITS, 8(1), pp. 101?106, 2019. (Text in Indonesian and Abstract in English)

Idrus, Y. & Arviana, R., CorelDRAW Assisted Decorative Design, ed. 1, ITB Press, 2017. (Text in Indonesian)

Yuliarma, The Art of Embroidery Design, Kepustakaan Populer Gramedia, 2016.

Hardisurya, I., Pambudy, N.M. & Jusuf, H., Indonesian Fashion Dictionary, PT Kompas Media Nusantara, 2019. (Text in Indonesian)